Pin connections of the Winterhalter GS 24 electronic program control

The last Days I had to repair a Winterhalter GS24 commercial glasswashing machine. Some cleaner liquid got into the electronic program control called EPS 1.1 V2.0;(part number: 31 05 132):

I was not able to get a connection scheme of the machine for which reason I had to discover the connections by my self. Here is a list of the connections:

Out:
A2 -> detergent dispenser
A4 -> rinse aid dispenser
A5 -> control lamp “cleaning”
A7 -> main pump
A10 -> fresh water valve

In:
E1 -> tank fill level
E2 -> door contact & tank heating (thermostat)
E3 -> start button
E6 -> boiler thermostat (clear water tank)

The other connections where unused in my machine (model without AquaMatik). They should be connected in more equipped machines.

How to fix the Paper Jam 1 error on a Samsung CLX-3175 Printer

A few days ago my Samsung CLX-3175 started to jam all paper at the end of the printing process with a “Paper Jam 1” error message. First I though a there is a problem with the deflector roll at the back of the printer. But all of my tries to fix the problem lead to nothing…
Some searching in the net gave me a hint to a defect paper sensor. I found a thread at Techsupportforum which describes a potential solution. The fix isn’t that easy, so it is not recommendable for left-handed people. The description is also not very practicable and a bit too difficult for which reason I will post some pictures and a small description of what worked for me.

The problem is a Paper Exit Sensor with part number 0604001393 which can be ordered for about 6-10€.

It’s a simple IR light barrier which is located top-right above the fuser (seen from the backside of the printer). I think the sensor gets broken because it can’t stand the heat of the fuser. Here is a picture of what you need to fix the printer:

First of all unplug the printer and remove all consumables like paperbox, toner, resttonerbox and drum.
Then remove the right and left covers. This is not that easy because they are sticking very tight. A video of the removal can be seen at here. Starting with the right cover (seen from the printer front), you have to remove the screw in the back:

Yes, it’s only one screw! Now place the printer on the table edge and release the cover grabbing, pulling and shaking on the
bottom-side. I used a big screwdriver as lever from the front:

The left cover is not fixed with a screw, it can be removed the same way like the right cover. After this, the fuser can be removed. The Fuser is connected to the mainboard and the powersupply. The cables have to be disconnected and released from the cable holders:

In the picture above i removed the power unit too, this is not necessary – I was over-motivated 😉
To remove the fuser which is located in the middle of the backside of the printer four screws must be released. Unfortunately I forgot to make a picture of the screws and the fuser, but the description can be found at the printers Service manual on page 3-16. The fuser can be removed start pulling on its right side. Then the printer should look a bit empty and we can see the Paper Exit Sensor in the upper right corner:

To remove the cables from the sensor, it is necessary to remove the High Voltage board on the left site (from front) of the printer. This could be done easily by flipping the printer on its right site, because under the board are a few springs which will stay at there place if the board is removed upwards. The board is mounted with a few screws and a plastic fasting. Lift the board and remove the cable from the sensor.

Now the sensor could be replaced. I got it out by pressing it’s fasting with a small screwdriver from behind the mounting.
Unfortunately the connector housing of my new sensor had not the same dimensions like the old one, for which reason it doesn’t fit in the mounting.
I removed the unnecessary plastic from the sensors housing and the printers mounting with a small file until the sensor fits.. The reassembling is easier than disassembling. The fuser and the covers snap in easily. After putting all things back the printer works perfect!

How to get the Garmin heart rate monitor to work after a Battery change

This week I tried to change the Battery on my Garmin heart rate monitor ( HRM2-SS ). The change itself is not that difficult – only remove the 4 screws at the backside, open the cover, change the old Battery with a new CR2032, close the cover and place the screws back. After that the Heart rate was not shown in my Forerunner or Edge…
To fix the problem I tried to reconnect the monitor with the forerunner manymany times – without any success.
A colleague of mine who uses a (optical) nearly similar polar heart belt, gave me the hint to short-circuiting the monitor for a few minutes. Bypassing the battery contacts should cause a reset of the device. This could easily done with a paper clip or by inserting the battery in the wrong direction. The contacts of the monitor are installed in a way that the misplaced battery will only cause a bypass between the two contacts. Be careful: don’ t give reverse polarity to the device – only bypass the connectors!
After this procedure the heart rate monitor build up a proper connection to my garmin computers and every thing works as expected. By the way – i love my Garmin devices!